This table frame is going to have to be strong because it will be "supporting" the main gaming table instead of being apart of the main gaming table. There is big difference in my design in that, if the table legs were connected to the main table, they would be taking all of the load and weight of the table whereas this design incorporates a table frame that has drawers and must support the weight of the gaming table. To help support the weight and distribute the weight evenly, we will have the table frame sit under the beams connected to the table and resting under the main plywood of the game table.
First let's concentrate on cutting all the pieces of the table frame at 4 inches in height. I purchased more Maple Hardwood stock from the lumber yard.
[4] - 8 foot long x 5+ inches wide White Maple Hardwood material stock at 4/4 board thickness "which equals just over 3/4" thick".
The actual terminology used by the lumber company is:
[15] BM "Board Material" 25/32" S2S1E WHITE HARD MAPLE 4/4 25/32 S&B S2S1E 9106517
total price after taxes $64.38
This amount of material will cover everything I need to build the table frame "minus the legs"! The legs are going to come from either pre-cut legs OR from Maple stock that is 8/4 thickness or about 1-3/4" thick material. I haven't decided yet what to go with because I'm still checking prices!
We can still build the table frame without having the legs since the legs are added after the table frame is built!
So, take all of your material and cut it down to the 4 inch height you will need for each table frame section.
NOTE: All the pieces of the table frame will be exactly the same height 4"!
The reason behind this height is because it allows me to cut a hole in the wood that is 3" in height but leave 1/2" of material above and below this gap! This leaves enough material for the piece to still be strong enough as a support piece on the table frame and yet still support a drawer within. This also gives me drawers that will be about 2-3/4" deep for whatever gaming components I want to put in it!
Will all the pieces cut to 4 inches in height, we can now cut each piece to the correct length. In total there are 16 pieces that make up the frame of the table. You will also be cutting 5 drawer faces to be used to fit in the gaps and attach to each drawer.
Below is the view of the table frame looking from the ground up!
NOTE: You'll notice that the table frame is not the same width as the main table and the reason for this is I want to give a little room for the players legs as they sit next to the table. It also gives a nice illusion of the table floating and being the main focal point! You'll also note that the game table is being support on the beams you secured underneath the main table and not the table sides!
Take the remaining lumber you have and cut out all the pieces for the table frame so they will be a consistent 4" in height. You have the following boards:
2 - LONG side pieces
2 - SHORT side pieces
2 - INNER support pieces "LONG"
8 - INNER side pieces for drawer sliders
4 - drawer plates face covers "these should be planed down to 1/2" thickness but not absolutely necessary"
4 - LEG supports
First let's cut the LONG SIDE pieces of the table frame. These are going to be 46" long exactly.
Next come the SHORT SIDE pieces which will be exactly 35" long!
Here are all four boards ready to be drilled with the KREG pocket hole jig!
Mark each edge with three pencil marks that is 1" apart for [3] marks altogether as shown below. I felt two drill holes was not enough for a strong secure hold so that's why I went with [3]!
Secure the wood piece in the KREG pocket hole jig and drill out each hole from one edge to the other.
Do this on both ends of the boards and make sure you drill all the holes on the same side of the board!
Below shows all three holes drilled and ready to secure each corner.
Go ahead and use your table saw or a flat strong table to secure each board together. Make sure you have a 90 degree square to lock the two boards in place and help keep them at a 90 degree angle to each other.
CRITICAL: When securing these two boards together "as well as all the table frame side boards" you must be sure that they are 90 degree to each other or the table will be out of alignment and nothing will fit exactly as it should! A table that is out of wack will not sit right, will wobble, will tilt and will never sit flat on the floor! This step if very important and you need to get it right on each of the four corners! Also, make sure you line up each flat edge so they are smooth to the touch and there is not overhang; you can use a clamp to get these edges flat. A mallet also works to lightly tap the wood and get it to move ever so slightly to line them up! NEVER USE A HAMMER OR YOU MIGHT DENT THE WOOD!
I used some long flat clamps to secure the two pieces together before drilling them. You can also use your pipe clamps or smaller metal clamps for this same purpose.
Once the one corner is secure go ahead and add the second side piece. Follow the same steps to make sure the boards are at a true 90 degree angle and each side is flat and edge are smooth to the touch.
Below shows all four boards secured together and checked for true 90 degree accuracy. To check angle you can also use the 3 x 4 x 5 Triangle method where you take a corner and make a mark at a distance of any multiple of three's such as 3x3 inches, 3x4 inches, 3x8 inches, etc.. Then on the other board make a mark that is of the same multiplier but using a 4 instead of a 3. So, if you used 3x4 to get 12 inches you would use 4x4 and get 16 inches.
Now to verify the two boards are at a true 90 degrees you take the next measurement which in this case is a multiplier of 5, so you would use 5x4 and get 20 inches. This 20 inch length is the exact distance you should have from the first mark to the second mark, which will make a 90 degree triangle!
Below is the table frame secured with all corner screws attached ready for the inner support pieces.
See you in the next post!
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